Town Cryer! German Fußball Wunderbar! St Pauli and Borussia Dortmund
Here is an account of a recent trip to Germany to watch some Bundesliga (1+2) action, St Pauli v SC Paderborn 07 and Borussia Dortmund v SC Freiburg.
5 of us made the trip across to Deutschland, one Ipswich Town fan, three Norwich City fans and a Gooner, seeking to be unified for one weekend. The aim was to visit one of Europe’s largest and most impressive stadia in Dortmund’s Westfalenstadion and take in the unique culture and atmosphere surrounding Hamburg’s “kult” club St Pauli. We had been following the latter from afar for a couple of years, perhaps inspired like others by the ideology, the fan-orientated ethos and the “underdog” tag. We had contacted the Fanladen around 8 weeks in advance, and reckoned our chances of getting tickets were slim to none, with most games selling out. Somewhat surprisingly, 2 weeks before the trip, we received an email and we had 5 tickets! So on the morning of the game we stumbled into the Fanladen with the shakes from the night before to collect our tickets. As a token of goodwill I presented them with a copy of my EP, BEAR, featuring the track St Pauli, written in tribute to the ethic of the club’s origins and aforementioned fanbase. Now I wasn’t entirely sure how this would go down. My music edging closer to the indie/folk genres than the punky, skull and crossbones type. Wonderful guys at the Fanladen though, I needn’t have worried, they banging it straight on the stereo and then asked me and drummer Andy to sign it “incase you’re actually famous and we can sell it on Ebay”. Legends! After a brief pilgrimage to the famed Jolly Roger for a couple of Astra’s, we ventured into the stadium in pursuit of further beers and Currywürst. As the teams came out to Hell’s Bell’s, we revelled in the sunshine, enjoying a rare stint on the terracing, and sipping beer in full view of the pitch, both amongst our reasons for wanting to venture to the stadia of Germany.
Amongst Pauli’s ranks was former Ipswich Town full back and foldable bicycle enthusiast Moritz Volz, otherwise we all struggled to identify any of the other 21 players. But then, we hadn’t really come to analyse the team selection and tactical inclinations of the coaching staff. We wanted to sing. At Portman Road we have a “only sing when you score” philosophy. Most English grounds frown upon persistent standing. Theres always the moment where the stewards sheepishly walk up and down the rows asking “sit down please”, casting a stern gaze. The “ultras”, angry looking sorts at the front faced the crowd with their megaphones rallying the fans and starting the chants. Straight ahead we had the SC Paderborn 07 fans, also in good voice, housed in the Nordkurve, overlooked by the gloomy Flak tower, an anti-aircraft gun tower used by the Luftwaffe to defend against Allied air raids during WWII. To our right the Gegengerade, the old main stand set to be demolished following the game.
Pauli were 2-0 up at the break thanks to goals from Lasse Sobiech and Max Kruse. Much as we’d found in Dortmund, the fans enjoyed the goals by singing their version of the Pet Shop Boys 1993 hit “Go West”. The half had passed us by in all honesty. We found ourselves concentrating fully on the words to the Pauli songs. We’d also made some friends standing around us. Both goals were spent seeing who in our vicinity could spill the most beer over each other. One of our new friends decided that we should start up a chant of “football’s coming home” of Baddiel and Skinner fame. Amazingly it caught on and several of the fans around us joined in, perhaps in irony?!
The match intensified in the second half with news that Fortuna Düsseldorf were being held 2-2 at home to MSV Duisberg. If Duisberg could gain the advantage, Pauli would be in the play-off against Hertha Berlin for the right to play in next season’s Bundesliga. Rumours were rife that Duisberg went 3-2, 4-2, then 5-2 up. The crowd celebrated wildly, with no mobile phone coverage available to confirm said scoreline. At the same time, Pauli had increased their advantage, Florian Bruns the scorer. Then quite likely the goal of the match, a deft chip from none other than our hero Moritz Volz. 4-0. Hearts were sunk however when it was confirmed to us that the Düsseldorf score was still 2-2. Rumours circulated that a rogue Hamburg fan started this vicious rumour up from the Hauptribüne, the all seater stand to our left. Our boys at the front with the megaphones took a break whilst we all sat down, in an apparent move of solidarity with those seated in the Hauptribüne. Some fans then took off their shoes, which we found very strange. Departing cult-hero Deniz Naki then came off the bench to round off a 5-0 thrashing, Paderborn seemingly way off the pace. A rapturous reception was given whilst the players did their lap of honour, with Naki spearing the pitch with the corner flag, reminiscent of his celebration after scoring against Hansa Rostock earlier in the season, before sobbing into a microphone. We all embraced this, end of season celebrations in English football seemingly meek in comparison. We hung about for a while whilst we watched the fans enjoying their last moments in the Gegengerade, taking their seats as souvenirs before the bulldozers moved in. It was then back off to the Jolly Roger with our German friends for more Astra and a couple of ill-advised spicy tomato juice shots.
The previous day we had been in Dortmund, where unfortunately we weren’t able to get tickets to the match, however the club opened an arena next door to the ground where fans could go for free to watch the game on a big screen. I could only imagine that to watch an English equivalent, such as a Manchester or London club, you would have had to pay £20 for the privilege! Once again we met some friendly locals who were only too willing to welcome us in and show us a good time. We had done a ground tour the previous afternoon, and the Westfalenstadion (or Signal Iduna Park) is an impressive sight, like a cauldron inside with 4 steep “traditional” stands including the notorious Südtribüne, the “yellow wall” terracing housing a whopping 24,454 fans.
We learnt that in Germany, football is all about the fans. In Dortmund we watched a match for free on a big screen with 10,00 other fans who couldn’t get tickets. Every single person had either a Dortmund shirt or scarve on. At St Pauli our tickets cost just over 11 euros. The whole matchday experience is about fans coming together, having a drink, some banter and watching a game. The players seem to really appreciate the fans. We came away wishing that the experience of watching English football was more like it is Germany. We’ll certainly be going back next season, most likely to St Pauli and Dortmund and perhaps to another city. Hertha Berlin away anyone?!
Danke






